【時尚花邊】60萬一篇IG文 一場時裝媒體爭奪戰

撰文:黃立暉
出版:更新:

「其實一個top嘅KOL,4、5萬蚊一個post其實係好普通㗎咋,一張相......㗎咋。」言猶在耳。
不理解KOL花了多少時間精力經營形象的人,聽罷當然想打爆他們;而「葡萄」說到底亦無分國界,在香港之外,就連《Vogue》的編輯們,也來眼紅一番。

Italian fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni(Chiara Ferragni instagram)

這是一則國際性的時裝花邊新聞:時裝博客、明星名人獲贊助穿著品牌時裝出席活動一直是眾所周知的平常事,偏偏在上月剛過的米蘭時裝周中,幾位《Vogue》的編輯們終於按奈不住心中妒火,瞄準目標冷冷射出數枝揶揄之箭。

SO YES, SALLY, THE PROFESSIONAL BLOGGER BIT, WITH THE ADDED AGGRESSION OF THE STREET PHOTOGRAPHER SWARM WHO ATTEND THEM, IS HORRIBLE, BUT MOST OF ALL, PATHETIC FOR THESE GIRLS, WHEN YOU WATCH HOW MANY TIMES THE DESPERATE TROLL UP AND DOWN OUTSIDE SHOWS, IN TRAFFIC, RISKING ACCIDENTS EVEN, IN HOPES OF BEING SNAPPED.
VOGUE.COM總監Sarah Mower
WHICH BRINGS ME BACK AROUND TO SALLY AND SARAH’S POINTS ABOUT THE STREET STYLE MESS. IT'S NOT JUST SAD FOR THE WOMEN WHO PREEN FOR THE CAMERAS IN BORROWED CLOTHES, IT'S DISTRESSING, AS WELL, TO WATCH SO MANY BRANDS PARTICIPATE.
《VOGUE RUNWAY》負責人NicoleI Phelps
AM I ALLOWED TO ADMIT THAT I DID A LITTLE FIST PUMP WHEN SALLY BROACHED THE BLOGGER PARADOX? THERE’S NOT MUCH I CAN ADD HERE BEYOND HOW FUNNY IT IS THAT WE EVEN STILL CALL THEM 'BLOGGERS,' AS SO FEW OF THEM EVEN DO THAT ANYMORE. RATHER THAN A CELEBRATION OF ANY ACTUAL STYLE, IT SEEMS TO BE ALL ABOUT TURNING UP, LOOKING RIDICULOUS, POSING, TWITCHING IN YOUR SEAT AS YOU CHECK YOUR SOCIAL-MEDIA FEEDS, FLEEING, CHANGING, REPEATING ... IT'S ALL PRETTY EMBARRASSING — EVEN MORE SO WHEN YOU CONSIDER WHAT ELSE IS GOING ON IN THE WORLD. (HAVE YOU REGISTERED TO VOTE YET? DON’T FORGET THE DEBATE ON MONDAY!
VOGUE.COM時裝新聞編輯Alessandra Codinha

大概是說,今天的時裝博客為了搶鏡不擇手段,時裝場地裏外都成為他們的天橋,不斷替換品牌贊助的衣服,乃至罔顧個人形象,助長盲目消費及搏搶鏡等不良之風。

當然,Susie Bubble及Bryanboy都不是省油的燈:

然後,話題由個人風格、街拍之風扯到去媒體霸權去了。

不掃興討論霸權問題,讓我實實在在地揭露一個更絕望的真相:或許香港「4、5萬蚊一個post好普通」,在外地,一個instagram post就值60,000英磅(5、60萬港幣),濕濕碎。

就以時裝Youtuber Zoe Sugg為例,由2009年至今已累積一千多萬名追縱者,她的月薪大概是50,000英磅,相當於一名外國大牌時裝雜誌編輯的月薪。

其實很簡單,身處資本社會,事情自然變得消費。在資本之中奪取特權後,沒有人阻止你追求更理想的層面,卻不可以批評人利用資本的系統獲利。「阻人發達猶如殺人父母」,來自Pop的公關Portia Shaw告訴你:「這些時裝博客可以為你帶來即時回報,而傳統的媒體則要你多等一段時間。」

Thrsxty資深公關Candace Fremder說:「為了得到更多觀眾的關注,我們願意花1,500至300,000英磅不得。A級的明星博客,我們可以由50,000英磅為起點線。」

媒體正在急速轉化,互聯網帶來更多更激烈的競爭。傳統與新媒體之間的爭奪戰只會有增無減,誰勝誰負拭目以待。