【BURBERRY道歉】 Hoodie裡的風波 衛衣粗繩索引發「吊頸」聯想

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早前BURBERRY在倫敦時裝周發表2019 秋冬系列,秀後不到數小時,網上已引起一陣騷動及譴責,究竟所為何事?

就是因為秀中一件駝色Hoodie連帽衛衣前身的「套索」設計。

BURBERRY 2019秋冬系列其中一件衛衣設計(bbc)

品牌最新2019 秋冬系列為大家帶來了一款連帽衛衣,衫身那抽「搶眼」的繩子跟一般連帽衛衣設計有所不同。單看繩子本身,已比普遍應用於衛衣上的更粗更寬,色彩更為奪目,但為何單單一條繩子,會惹來此次有份走秀的模特Liz Kennedy,並特意在自己的分享平台上發文批評,同時令部分觀眾懷惑其設計的本意?原來一切問題都在於繩子中間所用上的「Noose」套索設計,這個打上結子的方法,令不少人將其聯想到「絞刑」的歷史。

模特Liz Kennedy就套索設計發文表示:「自殺並不是一種時尚。有數百種方法可以繫上繩子,品牌卻忽略了套索設計的原意本是掛在頸子上。」她認為,設計已不關乎魅力或前瞻性,「而是品牌怎麼會忽視了這件本設定給年輕一代的款式,也會直接影響着易受動搖的年輕人這一點,何況在這個全球自殺率高企的時代裏……」言論公開後,Kennedy隨即引來不少支持及迴響。

在 Instagram 查看這則貼文

@burberry @riccardotisci17 Suicide is not fashion. It is not glamorous nor edgy and since this show is dedicated to the youth expressing their voice, here I go. Riccardo Tisci and everyone at Burberry it is beyond me how you could let a look resembling a noose hanging from a neck out on the runway. How could anyone overlook this and think it would be okay to do this especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth. The impressionable youth. Not to mention the rising suicide rates world wide. Let’s not forget about the horrifying history of lynching either. There are hundreds of ways to tie a rope and they chose to tie it like a noose completely ignoring the fact that it was hanging around a neck. A massive brand like Burberry who is typically considered commercial and classy should not have overlooked such an obvious resemblance. I left my fitting extremely triggered after seeing this look (even though I did not wear it myself). Feeling as though I was right back where I was when I was going through an experience with suicide in my family. Also to add in they briefly hung one from the ceiling (trying to figure out the knot) and were laughing about it in the dressing room. I had asked to speak to someone about it but the only thing I was told to do was to write a letter. I had a brief conversation with someone but all that it entailed was “it’s fashion. Nobody cares about what’s going on in your personal life so just keep it to yourself” well I’m sorry but this is an issue bigger than myself. The issue is not about me being upset, there is a bigger picture here of what fashion turns a blind eye to or does to gain publicity. A look so ignorantly put together and a situation so poorly handled. I am ashamed to have been apart of the show. #burberry. I did not post this to disrespect the designer or the brand but to simply express an issue I feel very passionate about.

🦎(@liz.kennedy_)分享的貼文 於 張貼

自殺一向是敏感的話題,BURBERRY行政總裁Marco Gobbetti迅速作出回應:「我們對這款引起他人傷痛的產品作出最深切的道歉,雖然整個系列以海洋作為創作靈感,卻欠敏感度,乃是我們的過錯。」目前官方已將該產品的相關相片全面下架並從系列中刪掉,更透露品牌已對Kennedy作出了當面道歉。

品牌Jeff Decker的鑰匙扣。(網上圖片)

不過,這個套索的原理,也廣泛應用於生活上的不同層面,像船隻泊岸、打獵補獸,甚至登山時也會不時應用到類似的繩結;至於服飾創作上,也曾運用套索元素為設計重點,如美國Hot Rod品牌Jeff Decker的鑰匙扣,也有套索細節,這亦是NEIGHBORHOOD主理人瀧澤伸介、余文樂等人的日常必備單品。設計師固然要小心,但「Noose」是否只能與「自殺」相題並論?相信這個議題更值得我們思考更多。

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